Why the world books a holiday in Bhutan

Taktsang Gompa

My  article Why the world books a holiday in Bhutan appeared in Rediff.com.

Here is the link...

'When you want to cross a street in Bhutan, cars invariably stop to let you go.' 'Coming from India, it is a pleasant surprise.' 
Claude Arpi, who spent 10 days in the Land of the Dragon, tells us how Bhutan is different from the rest of the world.

Coming back to India can be a rude shock after a sejour in Bhutan. At Delhi International airport’s immigration, after scanning my OCI card, the officer suspiciously looked at it again and again, trying to tally the data on his computer with the one on the Card. It took a long time, not a word, not a smile. Though the conscientious officer was doing his duty, a human touch was missing. A couple of hours earlier, I had left Paro airport where the staff was all-smile; it had been the case during the last 10 days in the Land of the Dragon (‘Drukyul)’, today celebrated the world over for having invented the concept of Gross National Happiness (GNH).
It is true that Bhutan’s culture, based on Buddhist values is not entirely geared towards ‘normal’ development which is often fuelled by greediness and in any case a constant increase of the ‘domestic product’.

Buddha at Thimphu

Gross National Happiness (GNH)
The term GNH was coined in 1972 by Bhutan's Fourth King, Jigme Singye Wangchuck; it was a stroke of genius, from a monarch who saw the Future of humankind, or perhaps the dead-end of the current system.
Today, the Himalayan nation might not be a world decider like the US, China or India, but it is more and more cited in global fora.
Though the definition of Happiness might differ, the tiny nation has made the concept of ‘global happiness’ something worth studying.
Several Bhutanese think-tanks, such as the Centre for Bhutan Studies & Gross National Happiness Research are doing just this. Established by the Council of Ministers in 1999, the Center’s objective is to: “Conduct evaluative studies on existing programmes of the government and providing feedback on the basis of which the Royal Government can improve programmes and policies.”
The aim is to bring Happiness into governance.
The West has often a difference approach to Happiness. Earlier in 2016, data collected by the UN from people in 156 countries, surprisingly ranked Bhutan a lowly 84 in the list of Happy Nations. Different variables were used.
The fact that Denmark, Switzerland, Iceland, Norway and Finland were the five toppers shows that the criteria were based on Western values. It is a great pity! Can you believe that China is listed 83, just before Bhutan (while India is ranked 118)?
In the western approach, each country is also compared against Dystopia, a hypothetical nation characterized by human misery, oppression, disease, overcrowding and pervasive fear, a place where everything is wrong. Dystopia is the opposite of Utopia, synonymous for an ideal society with no crime or poverty.
The fact remains that the UN has begun studying the concept of ‘happiness’ which for centuries has been central to the Indian and Himalayan culture.
In Bhutan, this concept translates into governance.
A small but telling detail: when you want to cross a street, cars invariably stop to let you go. Coming from India, it is a pleasant surprise.
If not ‘happiness’, this might be called ‘coolness’ or ‘easy-goingness’, but such details do contribute to a more relaxed atmosphere.

Environment
The GNH is based on the four pillars: sustainable development, preservation and promotion of cultural values, conservation of the natural environment, and establishment of good governance. GNH has officially been incorporated to Bhutan's five-year planning process, which guides the economic development of the nation.
What is striking when one visits Thimphu the capital, or any other ‘big’ city is the cleanliness of the environment; the Himalayan rivers are uncontaminated (rafting is such a delight in Punakha), the air is not polluted, the cities and villages are empty of plastic and garbage (unlike Tamil Nadu where I live). There is no need of a ‘Swachh Bhutan’ campaign.
This can be seen at the national level too.
In an oped in Kuensel, Bhutan’s national newspaper, Annette Dixon, Vice President of the World Bank for South Asia wrote: “Bhutan declared in 2009 that it would remain carbon neutral and has made the most ambitious pledges on cutting emissions at COP21.”
The WB official however adds: “But staying neutral as emissions from industry and transport rapidly rise will not be easy. It will require aggressively finding ways to grow economically in a carbon neutral or reduced way.”
As the world starts looking back at the mess it has created, many believe that “after all, this GNH was perhaps not so naïve”.
At the end of the recent COP21 Paris Conference, the European Union (EU) acknowledged Bhutan’s ‘extraordinary ambition’ in addressing climate change by signing a ‘declaration’, which recognizes “Bhutan’s unique situation as a land-locked and least developed country with a fragile mountainous environment.” Today Bhutan is often cited as an example to follow.
A few months ago, Tshering Tobgay, the Bhutan Prime Minister gave a inspirational TED talk at Vancouver, Canada. Tobgay spoke with great eloquence of the special culture of the Land of the Dragon, its concept of Gross National Happiness, climate change, environment and free education for all; he said: “Of the 200-odd countries in the world today, it looks like we are the only one that's carbon neutral. Actually, that's not quite accurate. Bhutan is not carbon neutral. Bhutan is carbon negative.”
The ‘Happy’ Prime Minister asserted: “But it is our protected areas that are at the core of our carbon neutral strategy. Our protected areas are our carbon sink. They are our lungs. Today, more than half our country is protected, as national parks, nature reserves and wildlife sanctuaries.” During his Talk, Tobgay said that through the biological corridors: “our animals are free to roam throughout our country.”
With ‘development’ becoming the universal god, can society remain ‘happy’? Bhutan seems decided to show the way, though it does not mean that some Bhutanese are not dreaming to acquire a SUV or a bigger vehicle.

A question
With Bhutan becoming wealthier, will Happiness be consigned to the backstage for the sake of greater ‘wealth’?
It is certainly an issue.
The tourism industry is partly responsible for fuelling the ‘race for wealth’; though based on a ‘high value, low impact’ policy, ‘profit’ remains the main engine of growth.
Many in Bhutan are conscious that the nation is facing a hard choice; Kuensel suggests: “While Bhutan’s economy continues to grow and mature, different forms of economic system must be explored, studied and debated.”
While the capitalist economic system works on ‘profit’, it creates jobs and brings necessary tax revenues, does it automatically create happiness?

Circumambulating the Stupa at Thimphu

What is True Happiness?
On the last day of my visit I trekked up to the picturesque Taktsang Gompa (or Tiger's Nest), the monastery complex, hanging on a cliffside of the upper Paro valley; the gompa was built during the 17th century on the spot where the Swat-born Guru Padmasambhava meditated for three years, three months and three days with his consort Yeshe Tsogyal.
Paro Taktsang is one the thirteen ‘Taktsang’ caves which were blessed by the Master of Supreme ‘Sukh’.
While my legs were experiencing ‘dukh’ trying to reach the cave, I was wondering how Padmasambhava would have seen the GNH criteria.
He had no social security, no wifi, no means of transportation (except for levitation or on a back of a tigress), no house (though the Taktsang has breathtaking views), but his cave is still charged with happiness.
Can the traditional contentment be experienced today, is another question.
But it important to think about it …and to act.

Chomalhari in the background

Punakha Dzong

Officials at Punakha Dzong

Takstang Gompa where Guru Padmasambhava meditated

For the Sake of Happiness

My article For the Sake of Happiness appeared in Hindi in 23 editions of the Dainik Baskar.
The translation is not mine!

Here is the link...

Just Google 'Bhutan', hundreds of articles such as ‘discover a kingdom where happiness rules’ will appear on your screen.
The Kingdom of the Dragon is today considered as the happiest and most contented country of the planet.
But what is the happiness?
Wikipedia explains: “Happiness is a mental or emotional state of well-being defined by positive or pleasant emotions ranging from contentment to intense joy.”
Well, a definition can’t replace a smile on a child’s face; happiness is indeed beyond definition.
What is more interesting is that a tiny (in size) nation has made the concept of ‘global happiness’ known to the world.
The idea of a Gross National Happiness (GNH) was coined in 1972 by Bhutan's fourth King, Jigme Singye Wangchuck.
It is true that for centuries, Bhutan’s culture has been based on a deeper understanding of life, and not on purely material development whose only objective is a constant increase of the gross domestic product.
It was a stroke of genius, from a monarch who perhaps saw the Future.
It was not fashionable as yet, when Thimphu first pledged to have an economy preserving Bhutan’s culture of contentment (santosh).
Bhutan may not be a world decider like the US, China or India, but the Himalayan nation is now regularly cited during international conference.
Bhutan is also present in mundane news, for the right reasons: their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge visited the Land of Happiness and trekked up to the picturesque Tiger's Lair, also known as Paro Taktsang in Dzongka, Bhutan’s national language. The monastery complex, hanging on a cliffside of the upper Paro valley, was built during the 17th century on the spot where the Swat-born Guru Padmasambhava meditated for three years, three months and three days. Paro Taktsang is one the thirteen ‘Taktsang’ caves which were blessed by the Master of Supreme Happiness.
Looking at the photos taken by the journalists who followed the couple half-way, the royals must have experienced some bliss during the unusual trek.

Does the world understand happiness?
A few weeks earlier, data collected by the United Nations from people in 156 countries, had surprisingly ranked Bhutan a lowly 84 in the list of Happy Nations. Different variables were used: real GDP per capita, social support, healthy life expectancy, freedom to make life choices, generosity, and perceptions of corruption.
The fact that Denmark, Switzerland, Iceland, Norway and Finland are the five toppers shows that these variables are based on Western values. It is a great pity! Can you believe that China is listed 83, just before Bhutan, while India is 118?
Each country is also compared against Dystopia, a hypothetical nation characterized by human misery, oppression, disease, overcrowding and pervasive fear, a place where everything is wrong. Dystopia is the opposite of Utopia, synonymous for an ideal society with no crime or poverty.
Despite the Western prejudice (or lack of understanding) in the data collection and analysis, it is interesting to see that the UN has begun studying the concept of ‘happiness’ which has been central to the Indian and Himalayan culture.

Happy Environment
A few weeks ago, Tshering Tobgay, the Bhutan Prime Minister gave a most inspirational TED talk at Vancouver, Canada.
Tobgay spoke with great eloquence of the special culture of the Land of the Dragon, its concept of Gross National Happiness, climate change, environment and free education for all. Tobgay said: “Of the 200-odd countries in the world today, it looks like we are the only one that's carbon neutral. Actually, that's not quite accurate. Bhutan is not carbon neutral. Bhutan is carbon negative.”
The ‘Happy’ Prime Minister asserted: “But it is our protected areas that are at the core of our carbon neutral strategy. Our protected areas are our carbon sink. They are our lungs. Today, more than half our country is protected, as national parks, nature reserves and wildlife sanctuaries.”
The latter are connected through a network of biological corridors: even animals should be happy in Bhutan.

The Pillars of Happiness
Bhutan defined the four pillars of ‘Happiness’ as sustainable development, preservation and promotion of cultural values, conservation of the natural environment, and establishment of good governance. GNH is officially part of Bhutan's five-year planning process, which guides the economic development of the nation.
Easier planned than done!
But as the world starts looking back at the mess it has created, many believe that “after all, this GNH was perhaps not so naïve.”
At the end of the Paris Conference, the European Union (EU) acknowledged Bhutan’s ‘extraordinary ambition’ in addressing climate change by signing a ‘declaration’, which recognizes “Bhutan’s unique situation as a land-locked and least developed country with a fragile mountainous environment.”
‘Happiness is no more a utopia; Bhutan is often now cited as an example to follow.
Being a Global Village, in today’s world, no nation remains secluded, able to play according to its own rules without reference to its neighbours.
One could ask: with Bhutan becoming wealthier, will Happiness be consigned to the backstage for the sake of greater ‘wealth’?
If one believes news reports, dam companies will soon rule the Land of the Dragon. With ‘development’ becoming the universal god, can society remains ‘happy’?
It is up to Bhutan, but the important point is that the concept of ‘Happiness’ is now acknowledged worldwide.
During his Ted Talk, Tshering Tobgay said that through the biological corridors: “our animals are free to roam throughout our country.”
It is a fact that the fauna is still happy in Bhutan.
The Land of the Dragon has the highest population of the White-bellied Heron (ardea insignis) in the world. It was acknowledged during an international workshop on White-bellied Heron conservation conducted by the Royal Society for Protection of Nature. Bhutan now has 47 percent of the WBH global population, up from only 14 earlier.
I sometime wonder how Padmasambhava would have fared under the UN criteria. He had no social security, no wifi, no means of transportation (except for levitation), no house (though taktsang have breathtaking views), but his cave is still charged with happiness.
Will it last, is another question.

The UN is wrong about Bhutan. It really is one of the happiest places on earth

My article The UN is wrong about Bhutan. It really is one of the happiest places on earth appeared in Mail Today.

Here is the link...

Bhutan was recently in the news when the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge visited the ‘Land of Happiness’ and trekked up to the picturesque Tiger’s Lair, also known as Paro Taktsang in Dzongka.
The monastery complex, hanging on a cliffside of the upper Paro valley, was built during the 17th century on the spot where the Swat-born Guru Padmasambhava meditated for three years, three months and three days. Paro Taktsang is one the 13 ‘taktsang’ caves which were blessed by the Master of Supreme Happiness.
Variables William and Kate had to walk for nearly two hours to reach the gompa.
Looking at the photographs taken by the journalists who followed them half-way, it reflects that the royal couple must have experienced some bliss during the unusual trek.
Their visit and encounter with the charming royal couple of Bhutan (sometimes patronisingly called, ‘The Himalayan William and Kate’) were moments of rare happiness.
A few weeks earlier, data collected by the United Nations from people in 156 countries had surprisingly ranked Bhutan 84th in the list of Happy Nations.
Different variables were used: real GDP per capita, social support, healthy life expectancy, freedom to make choices, generosity and perceptions of corruption.
The fact that Denmark, Switzerland, Iceland, Norway and Finland are the five toppers shows that these variables are based on Western values.
Can you believe that China is listed 83, while India is 118?
Each country is also compared against Dystopia, a hypothetical nation characterised by human misery, oppression, disease, overcrowding and pervasive fear, a place where everything is wrong.
Dystopia is the opposite of Utopia, synonymous for an ideal society with no crime or poverty.
Despite the Western prejudice in the data collection and analysis, it is interesting to see that the UN has begun studying the concept of ‘happiness’ which has been central to the Indian and Himalayan culture (including in Tibet before the Communists ‘liberated’ the Roof of the World in 1950).
Whether on the Roof of the World, in Sikkim or in Bhutan, Padmasambhava has played a crucial role in this search for a deeper meaning in life and ultimately ‘sustainable happiness’.
It is significant that Bhutan Prime Minister Tshering Tobgay recently gave a most inspirational TED talk at Vancouver, Canada.
Tobgay spoke with great eloquence of the special culture of the Land of the Dragon, its concept of Gross National Happiness, climate change, environment and free education for all. Tobgay said: “Of the 200-odd countries in the world today, it looks like we are the only one that’s carbon neutral. Actually, that’s not quite accurate. Bhutan is not carbon neutral. Bhutan is carbon negative.”

Environment
The ‘Happy’ prime minister asserted: “But it is our protected areas that are at the core of our carbon neutral strategy. Our protected areas are our carbon sink. They are our lungs. Today, more than half of our country is protected, as national parks, nature reserves and wildlife sanctuaries.”
The latter are connected through a network of biological corridors: “Our animals are free to roam throughout our country,” Tobgay added.
Even animals should be happy.
Just before 175 countries signed the COP21 agreement, Topgay mentioned his country’s participation in safeguarding the planet; projects such as ‘Bhutan for Life’ intend to improve the country’s environment… for the benefit of the earth.
With its 70 per cent forest cover (it is the highest proportion in Asia), Bhutan has almost five million acres of protected land, rich in forests, pristine rivers and thriving wildlife.
The question is: can it last? If one believes news reports, dam companies will soon rule the Land of the Dragon. With ‘development’ becoming the universal god, can the society remain ‘happy’ and contented?
Two years ago, the Royal Institute for Governance and Strategic Studies (RIGSS) invited former Foreign Secretary Shyam Saran for a lecture — “Why Bhutan should worry more about climate change”.
The talk touched some serious issues such as hydropower, national revenue, biodiversity, livelihood and, indirectly, ‘happiness’.

Glaciers
Shyam Saran spoke of the climate change taking place in Bhutan, which accelerates the melting of glaciers: “This risk, at any time, can lead to landslide, avalanches and glacier lake outburst floods (GLOFs),” he added.
He mentioned other vulnerabilities, particularly the hydropower plants on which Bhutan is heavily dependent to balance its budget.
Some of these dams, if not properly conceived, could speed up the destruction of natural resources. But, what is this true happiness that everybody is speaking about?
A friend, who often visits Bhutan, told me that on his first visit, he was surprised to see everywhere ‘general stores-cumbar’, ‘hardware store-cum-bar’, even ‘medical shop-cum-bar’.
It is true that the 14thcentury saint, Drukpa Kunley, the Mad Yogi who introduced Buddhism in Bhutan, was an adept of the good things in life and he is still revered by all in Bhutan.
On April 23, the Queen Mother, along with a royal princess and several ministers, trekked for four hours along a 21-km trail where Drukpa Kunley meditated, drank, hunted and subdued demons; it is still a place of pilgrimage with a number of sacred spots linked to Kunley.
I sometime wonder how Padmasambhava would have fared under the UN criteria.
Strange, isn’t it? Ban-Ki-moon should visit the place.

Bhutan's Gross National Happiness depends on 'finding ways to grow economically in a carbon neutral way'

My article Bhutan's Gross National Happiness depends on 'finding ways to grow economically in a carbon neutral way appeared in today's edition of Mail Today

Here is the link...

As the New Year approaches, happiness is on everyone’s mind.
Though its definition differs, a tiny (in size) nation has made the concept of ‘global happiness’ known worldwide: it is Bhutan.
The idea of a Gross National Happiness (GNH) was coined in 1972 by Bhutan's fourth King, Jigme Singye Wangchuck.
Bhutan’s culture is based on deeper values, instead of a material development it aims at a constant increase in the gross domestic product
Bhutan’s culture is based on deeper values, instead of a material development it aims at a constant increase in the gross domestic product
It was a stroke of genius, from a monarch who saw the Future.
Since then, the Land of Dragon continued to pledge to have an economy preserving Bhutan’s culture based on deeper values, instead of a material development aiming at a constant increase in the gross domestic product.
Bhutan might not be a world decider like the US, China or India, but the Himalayan nation was often cited during the recently-held COP21 ‘climate’ negotiations in Paris.

Walk the talk
In an oped in Kuensel, Bhutan’s national newspaper, Annette Dixon, Vice President of the World Bank for South Asia wrote: “Bhutan declared in 2009 that it would remain carbon neutral and has made the most ambitious pledges on cutting emissions at COP21.”
The WB official however adds: “But staying neutral as emissions from industry and transport rapidly rise will not be easy. It will require aggressively finding ways to grow economically in a carbon neutral or reduced way.”
Bhutan defined the four pillars of ‘Happiness’ as sustainable development, preservation and promotion of cultural values, conservation of the natural environment, and establishment of good governance.
GNH is officially part of Bhutan's five-year planning process, which guides the economic development of the nation.
Easier planned than done!

Though very few took note of the ‘happiness idea’ when it was first expounded, four decades later, things have changed.
Today, as the world starts looking back at the mess it has created, many believe that “after all, this GNH was perhaps not so naïve.”
In 2008, Nicolas Sarkozy, the French President commissioned a study of alternative gauges of economic welfare, while in 2010, the UK began measuring the ‘National Well-Being’.
The UN has already released its third World Happiness Report.
At the end of the Paris Conference, the European Union (EU) acknowledged Bhutan’s ‘extraordinary ambition’ in addressing climate change by signing a ‘declaration’, which recognizes “Bhutan’s unique situation as a land-locked and least developed country with a fragile mountainous environment.”
It recognises the special requirements necessary to cater for the nation’s sustainable development needs.
Today Bhutan is often cited as an example to follow.

The philosophy of Kingdom of the Dragon has indeed gone a long way since 1972. Yeshey Dorji, a renowned Bhutanese nature photographer recently wrote on his blog: “Bhutan is just too insignificant - considered from any point of view: we simply cannot make a difference, neither economically, technologically - in any way. But despite that…Bhutan does arouse some interest among world leaders and thinkers and policy makers.”
Yeshey is however not sure of the Future: “GNH is unlikely to work until we completely dismantle the present economic order - how and what we produce, how we consume, how we transport, how we market.”

Money matters
The world today being a Global Village, can a nation remain secluded and just play according to its own rules; in the case of Bhutan, without reference to its giant neighbours and their ‘development’ policies?
At the time of the Paris’ talks, The Wall Street Journal warned that while Bhutan “uses a unique barometer to measure economic progress, the message of the 2015 Gross National Happiness Index is a troubling one: Money isn’t buying enough contentment.”
With Bhutan becoming wealthier, will Happiness be consigned to the backstage for the sake of greater ‘wealth’?
The WSJ argued: “Never mind that Bhutan’s economy is growing at a healthy annual rate of nearly seven per cent. Officials here worry that modern life tends to throw things off-balance.”

Right models
The tourism industry is in part responsible for fuelling the mad race for ‘wealth’; though based on a ‘high value, low impact’ policy, ‘profit’ remains the main engine of growth.
Many in Bhutan are conscious that the nation is facing a hard choice; Kuensel suggests: “While Bhutan’s economy continues to grow and mature, different forms of economic system must be explored, studied and debated.”
While the capitalist economic system works on ‘profit’, it creates jobs and brings necessary tax revenues, does it automatically create happiness?
Observers feel that ‘finding the right kind of business model for Bhutan is worth exploring’, if the nation wants to keeps ‘happiness’ as its USP.

Another issue is the dams.
Take the Punatsangchhu-I Hydroelectric Project (PHPA I), the first stage of an initiative by the Royal Government of Bhutan and India in May 2008 to generate 10,000 MW of hydro electricity by 2020.
Apart from the fact that the hydropower project faces serious environmental glitches, most nature lovers believe that Bhutan’s rivers will be ‘killed’ by the projects.
Further, will the dams’ revenues bring more contentment to Bhutan? Only the future will tell us.
According to a survey conducted by the Royal Society for Protection of Nature, Bhutan has the highest population of the White-bellied Herons in the world.
If birds are happy, it is a positive sign, but Bhutan is nevertheless at a crossroad and unhappiness in the Dragon Kingdom would be a great loss for humanity.